Smithereens

Seafood places in Manhattan have a habit of announcing themselves with plates that look larger than the tables. Smithereens at 414 E 9th St keeps portions reasonable and the noise lower than you’d expect on a weekend night. The same calm extends to the kitchen, where onsite service arrives without delay.

Dine-in lets you sample the great cocktails rolling out until last call, or you can sidestep the bar and head straight to the great wine list. Takeout boxes show up when the kitchen isn’t full, and solo diners find the front row seats unapologetically quiet. Beer appears on the same short page as every other drink, which keeps the list focused.

Call ahead if you prefer a booth, or just stroll over and grab the map directions from Union Square. Late-night drinkers will remember the walk home across the park.